A couple days ago I managed to hit the farmer's market right across the street from my apartment. It was a beautiful, sunny day; the stands were overflowing with asparagus and flowers and freshly baked scones; and as I strolled around, buying things I didn't need but couldn't resist (vibrantly red strawberries, spicy pickled okra, a whole smoked trout), I spied Dave from Max Creek Hatchery selling ramps. Now ramps, aka wild leeks, are only available in the spring, and chefs and foodies go crazy for them. They're all over menus across town right now, and I've certainly eaten plenty of dishes starring ramps when they're in season. But I suddenly realized that I've never cooked them myself. It's one of those ingredients that can sound intimidating, because they're so highly anticipated by foodies (like soft-shell crabs, truffles or fiddlehead ferns), but ramps are really very, very simple to prepare.

I asked Dave how to prepare them, and here's what he said: Trim the roots, and cut the bulbs from the leaves. Saute just the bulbs in olive oil or butter for a few minutes, then add the leaves (either whole or chopped) and cook until wilted.

That's it. They make a great side dish, or are easily added to eggs or pasta. I bought a bunch, went home and sliced the bulbs, chopped the leaves, and cooked them as he suggested. A pinch of salt, and they were fantastic -- surprisingly sweet, with a very mellow onion-garlic flavor. I also stirred some into scrambled eggs to make a more complete meal. Next time, I think I'll try serving them over spaghetti, with lots of good olive oil, cherry tomatoes and some grated Parmesan. Yum...